Category: Cars

Stuck in the 30s

Hello fellow RC enthusiasts, (assuming you all are still)

No, the title of this post doesn’t want to refer to that difficult time in life that some of us are in; it sadly hints at the recent Lap Times of Team Vebra.

A more suitable title could have been “Injury List” and this is why:

  • The M03L flew off the last straight’s rumble strip and landed casually near the pit lane; after some further checks, the Servo had gotten stuck – Result = Dead Servo.
  • The T3R had a bad encounter with the pit lane wall and broke a front universal joint – still waiting on new parts to arrive from Hong Kong –  Result = Undriveable 2wd touring car made only slightly better once turned into a 2Fwd (as opposed to a 2Rwd)
  • The upper desk of the T3R underwent some major “workshop-mishap” and ended up having one of its “rear-tails” snapped off. Result = unbalanced Flex; and the Xray 301190 upper deck doesn’t seem to be stocked by anybody (anymore)
  • The TL01 has been a constant under/over-steering machine ever since last season; recent attempts based on tips gathered from fellow drivers at the LMCC have seen us trying to block the front differential but limited improvements were seen. Result =  a touring car that feels and looks more like a part time drifter.
  • The M03s which until recently was our entry level pride and joy has mysteriously decided to join the over-steering club. Result = a nervous little devil whose 15T brushed motor has quite frankly seen better days, slow in the straights and no longer predictable in the slower sections.

The sum of the above “results” has seen us “stuck” around the 29.8 or 31.2 seconds per lap; not quite what we’d gotten used after installing our MyLaps RC4 transponders but ….. folks …… the season has only just begun and our Bold (very very Bold) predictions want to be:

  1. the T3R will do a lap under 23″
  2. the TL01 will do a lap under 25″
  3. the M03L will go under 28″
  4. the M03s (brushed) will once again happily cruise around the track with an average lap time per session of under 31″

so, stay tuned and be ready to make fun of us come October time when the season will be over and we won’t have achieved anything apart from having had some fun.

Thanks for reading us !

Astoria

 Editor’s note on April 23rd 2014, Goals 1 and 2 have already been achieved ! :) 

 

Team Vebra cheating on Tamiya

Here at Team Vebra we’re most loyal to Tamiya. Its little cars gave us and still give loads of fun. You could think that we never look at other makes, well we actually do. We already have a Micro-T from Losi, but that wasn’t considered “cheating” since the totally different scale (1/36 vs 1/10).

But last week Team Vebra took quite a deep “turn” when not only it acquired one, but actually two more cars, that aren’t Tamiya.

Team Vebra got hold of a very nice XRay M18, from our favourite local dealer, Kit. See it below in all its beauty.

IMG_00001028Everything is still stock, except for the receiver which has been replaced with an OrangeRx DSM compatible receiver. Not only 2/3 cheaper but also smaller and fits better on the M18 board.

The car comes with a 5cells Nimh battery rated at 6v for 1600Mah, but I’m waiting on an online retailer to re-stock on these. Also ordered the following kit. This will replace both the stock ESC and brushed motor with  a TrackStar 1/18th Scale 7.5T Brushless power System (6100kv), which you can see here below in all its glory.

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(image courtesy of HobbyKing.com)

Also planned is an upgrade to the M18Pro chassis, a nice silver graphite board to replace the stock M18 chassis. This is not the Lipo version but a Lipo can be used anyway. Whatchout if you plan on doing the same type of upgrade. There are little things to bear in mind:

Although most mounting points are the same between the M18 and M18Pro chassis boards, motor, antenna mount and esc mount are placed in a different way. For the motor you have no way around buying the optional alu motor mount that costs around 25Euro just for that little mettalic mount.

A Lipo battery shouldn’t exceed the following dimensions: 98mm x 34mm x 15mm, otherwise you’ll need to buy the M18Pro Lipo chassis which has a different battery lodging.

When switching to brushless 360 or 370 motors, instead of the stock 180 motor, the spur gear needs to be replaced with a 42.

Remember that using too powerful motors may require other parts to be changed (e.g. differentials) or there is a risk of breaking some very important and expensive parts.

Another nice upgrade to perform to this little car is replacing the “hop-on” wheels for some proper screw-on hex hub tyre shafts. They cost 25Euro a pair though.

The M18 really looks like a nice little pack of fun and we’re eager to try it on the track!

Same for her bigger sister who also joined Team Vebra… A T3R! But this will be occasion for another post.

 

Once again, thanks for reading this.

Ka.

kV and Turns for dummies like me

When we were running brushed motors, the only power rating I knew were the “Turns”. Turns, as the name suggests, indicates the number of copper-wire turns inside the motor. The lowest turns (T) has a motor (lower resistance), the faster the motor is (rpm).

kV work the other way around. It’s a calculated value based on RPM / Volts, or how many spins the motor does with just one Volt. The higher the value, the faster the motor.

A little table shows a comparison between Turns and kV

Turns kV
3.5T 10,500
4.5T 9,000
5.5T 7,400
6.5T 6.400
7.5T 5,800
8.5T 5000
10.5T 4,200
13.5T 3,300
17.5T 2,200
21.5T 1,800

For example, as posted before, our Micro-T now sports a 10250kV… Well, that would read (nearly) 3.5T! Scary, isn’t it?

Hope this could be helpful, in case you’re still learning as I am.

Thanks for reading,

Ka.

Mascot roars better than ever

Our Mascot got another little upgrade! As already posted some time ago, was time our little Losi Micro-T had an upgrade.

This little bad-boy may not be the classic on-road race car, and not only due to its “Lilliput” size, but mainly because of its original purpose, a road-type-buggy shall we say. Nevertheless, after a few little changes, upgrades, it turns into even more fun than expected or hoped.

We first did a “massive” upgrade, as posted last year when we replaced the brushed motor for a 8750Kv brushless one, put a Lipo battery and Spektrum receiver. But that wasn’t enough for our little micro car.
Those “funny” (read “awful”) tyre clips were replaced with some proper threaded axle ones… And last time I worked on it, I (this time I say “I” ’cause it’s only my fault) tried to fit 4 oil dampers and broke one of them.

As the oil dampers are only sold in packs of 4, I was forced to buy a full set to replace the broken one.
My fav online store was out of stock so had to rely on another one, who didn’t have the official-original Losi oil dampers, but the 3Racing version.

I must admit to be quite impressed by the 3Racing Losi Micro-T oil dampers. They really look “the part” and come with various accessories, including a little plastic eye-dropper containing oil. They come pre-filled and ready to “run”.

We shall never order an item alone… Isn’t it? So, took the plunge and ordered also a Losi 10250Kv brushless motor!

Wanna see how it looks after fitting these parts? Well, there it is, our little Mascot in all its beauty!
Losi Micro-T oil dampers

You can’t really see the new motor, but believe me, it’s there. And you’ll believe me as soon as I’ll post a video of it running, hopefully soon.

Once again, thanks for reading!

Ka.

Vebra goes Vroum!

As already anticipated by our team’s head pilot and mech Astoria, Team Vebra got a chance to try out a nice Kyosho 1/10 running on petrol.

Team’s friend Afrika kindly lent us his car and we took the plunge. Bear in mind that we only ever drove electric cars so this was accepted as some kind of challenge.

Here are some pics of the little beast:

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will it roar?

The answer is “YES”. After some fiddling with the receiver, glow starter and 6 dead batteries later, this little “drinker” finally did “vroum”. It’s actually really nice listening to that little engine pretending to be a big one ;)

Here’s a short video of it.

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This was just a preliminary test, only to see it moving. Now it’s time for the body to be painted, little tuning and then it’s track time!

We’ll keep you posted, as always, thanks for reading us!

Ka.

Sunny Micia…. (borrowed TL-01)

This long weekend also provided us with an opportunity to dedicate a “semi-spare” TL-01 to act as shelf-chassis to our lovely Micia. The body posts were shortened and now our beautiful Chevy just looks super cute. For anyone still wondering about the vertical ‘white to blue split’;well, this is a 1957 body on which a 1955 Chevy 210 design was applied….. ….. ….. ….

      

      

      

This does mean that our mightly TeamVebra TL-01 is back in business and, consequently, once our next modelsport.co.uk basket graces the shores of lux, we shall have some 4×4 updates for you all!

thanks for reading, watching, downloading, spamming… whatever !

A.

Our Beautiful 1955 Chevy – (aka Micia)

This post is long overdue as in fact, this car was finished a couple of months ago. Anyway… we’re here to show you the results of a secret project we had going on for some time. Just so you know, our TeamVebra founding member – and originator – actually  used to drive one of these (real ones) back in the sunny 1950s. Our Model here is just an attempt at recreating a classic look in the 1/10 scale. The chassis is our sturdy TL-01 and, for it, we got a Parma PSE shell from our favorite supplier:   Modelsports.co.uk 

It arrived in three separate parts (not something we’re used to being Tamiya fans) and the latter were not pre-drilled (another challenge for us)

         

As the pictures show, although there are three shell parts to cut out, the front and rear bumpers are actually molded onto the same piece of plastic.

We got a good pair of scissors and a shell-hole puncher (we think there is a more technical term for it but it escapes us right now)

         

Next came the tricky task of positioning the unfinished shell (in two parts) over the body of the car and deciding where to drill the body-posts holes. Astoria and Ka worked on this bit together as it proved “fiddly” to say the least.

Then it was time to place some standard Window masks followed by some “ad-hoc” masking tape. The truth is that the Parma PSE shell is actually the much more popular 1957 Chevrolet BelAir but we wanted to replicate – as much as possible –  the look of the two door 1955 Chevy 210. So in order to get the same colour split down the sides we had to improvise a little bit.

         

         

We then graced Micia with a few decals (that came with the Parma PSE kit) and she was ready for a pair of HPI offset shiny rims (offset by 6mm because the shell is a larger 200mm body compared to the Tamiya 186mm TL-01)

And here she  is, in all her CLASSIC beauty :) 

She’s not been raced yet, and she possibly never will be :) we like her a bit too much to see her landing on her back and scraping across the tarmac of the LMCC track :)

Thanks for watching!

A.

Our Giulia Hits the LMCC (and the LMCC hits her, twice)

Hello everyone!

Today we had about 90 minutes of sunshine and of course, we took advantage of them by reaching the LMCC track with our brand new Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA (AKA ‘Our Giulia’)

         

Just some pictures for now, no LapTimes nor particular observations can be made for the moment as, ultimately, it’s the same brushless M03s that was under the MiniCoop shell. Yes, with the same handling problems!

Pictures were taken prior to the 15 or 20 laps that we got her to do. Unfortunately, despite our best intentions we had two minor “FAILS” and, oh boy, do scratches show up well on that Mustard Yellow!

Stay tuned for more pics and info on our Giulia.

A.

Our Giulia and MiniKast are Race Ready! (M03m + M03L)

So the weather kept us away from the track today, as expected during April it can’t be sunny everyday….so…. we took the time to do some body-shells-hopping-magic in our TeamVebra’s Studio.

The Ka500 (Medium Wheelbase) has been extended to the Long Wheelbase and is proudly “wearing” our veteran MiniKast shell !

Current Specs of this M03L:

  • HPI Firebolt 15T
  • Viper 12R (Lipo)
  • Kyosho 2.4ghz
  • CVA Oil Shocks (yellow springs) FRONT
  • Aluminium Oil Shocks (white springs) REAR <– we’re weary of the possible results!
  • Tamiya MiniCooper Radial Tyres (50568)

And our MiniCoop shell (short Wheelbase) is going to have a little rest because, with the Medium-Extension parts taken from the Ka500, this M03s has become an M03m and will be “wearing” (proudly) our rather neat Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA (in groovy mustard yellow)

For our Giulia we also fitted a Front Bumper to try and protect its muzzle that does stick out somewhat (compared to a Mini) we’ve also finally drilled holes in the body-posts (at the rear) so that the shell is held at the right height.

Giulia’s Specs are:

  • Etronix Photon Brushless 10T (+esc)
  • Spektrum SR3300T – Temp Sensor on Motor (highest reading to date 40degrees)
  • CVA Oil Suspensions (Blue at Front, Red at Rear)
  • Shimizu Tyres – Medium all Round (Mid Inserts at Front, Soft Inserts at Rear)
         

We’re secretly confident that the Giulia’s slightly more aerodynamic shape (compared to our faithful MiniCoop) will translate into a new record lap… stay tuned to find out if it’s true !

 Thanks for reading us

A.

Recette du jour: Petite Losi à la façon Brushless dans sa sauce Lipo

Today has been a good day for our little Mascot, the Losi 1/36 Micro-T.

Package containing the Brushless and 2.4GHZ conversion kit arrived on Friday, just in time for some Weekend RC upgrades.
Middle of the afternoon, lunch is over, sun is still shining strong, the dining table turns into Team Vebra’s “MicroGarage”.
Here’s the box containing the conversion kit. Being a “micro” car, the kit is also “micro”

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Once the box is opened, I carefully extract all the components from what I’d consider some professional and enthusiast “bubble wrapping”.

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Now please check the new motor. 8750Kv, Brushless. On a 1/36. This thing gonna fly! Maybe even too much.

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Follows

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the ESC and 2.4GHZ Receiver Combo and other parts which are not needed for this setup (this kit is also working on 1/24, that one though requires new parts).

We couldn’t consider the conversion totally complete without replacing the nickel battery. Therefore ordered the Lipo too.

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This is a really tiny car with tiny screws. Before doing anything I wanted to be sure I knew what I was doing. The kit comes with a huge folded doc…

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Nevertheless, Youtube is your friend and this video here is perfect to know how to proceed.

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The Losi à la façon Brushless dans sa sauce Lipo starts by opening the Losi shell.

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Do disconnect any cable you may see. You’ll be taking away pretty much all of them.

Goal is to replace the ESC/Receiver component, motor and battery.

I must admit it was pretty much straight forward. Managed to do it without anything exploding.

Once everything is replaced, you put back the original cover (the one you removed at the beginning) as the new one (the one in the kit) is for 1/24 models and not 1/36.

Once your Losi looks like this

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It means dinner is nearly ready to be served.

You add a pinch of Lipo

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And let it cook gently

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Uhm… Mais c’est divin!

Videos of the official test at LMCC will be online shortly!

Ka.

Currents Specs of M03s, M03m and TL01

  • M03 Short
    • Shell: MiniCoop
    • Motor: Dr Speed
    • Pinion: 20T
    • ESC: Viper 12R
    • Servo: Alturn USA - High Speed
    • Receiver/Transmitter: Spektrum DX3s / SR300
    • Front Dampers: Mini CVA Oil
    • Front Springs: Blue Stiff Springs
    • Rear Dampers: Mini CVA Oil
    • Rear Springs: Red Soft Springs
    • Wheels: 60d Mini Cooper
    • Tyres: Mini Cooper Radial Tyres
    • Battery Type: LiPo 4000mAHr
    • Extras 1: Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars (Silver Stiff)
    • Extras 2: Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set
    • Extras 3: Pin Type Aluminium Wheel Adapters
    • TOTAL WEIGHT: 1.22kg / 2.68lb


  • TL01
    • Shell: Focus WRC 02
    • Motor: Brushless 10T ETronix
    • Pinion: 23T
    • ESC: Etronix – Programmable
    • Servo: Futaba S3003
    • Receiver/Transmitter: Kyosho KT201 / KR200
    • Front Dampers: Aluminium Dampers Oil
    • Front Springs: White Extra Stiff Springs
    • Rear Dampers: Mini CVA Oil
    • Rear Springs: Yellow Medium Springs
    • Wheels: Marcel Slicks
    • Tyres: Marcel Slicks
    • Battery Type: LiPo 4000mAHr
    • Extras 1: Speed Tuned Gear Set
    • Extras 2: Adjustable Upper Arms (Negative Camber)
    • Extras 3: Pin Type Aluminium Wheel Adapters
    • TOTAL WEIGHT: 1.45kg / 3.19lb

  • M03 Medium
    • Shell: Fiat New 500
    • Motor: Ansmann Racing Clash 15T
    • Pinion: 20T
    • ESC: GM Racing V4R
    • Servo: Futaba S3003
    • Receiver/Transmitter: Tamiya TTU03 AM 27Khz / TRU 02
    • Front Dampers: Mini CVA Oil
    • Front Springs: Silver “long” Medium
    • Rear Dampers: Stock Friction Dampers
    • Rear Springs: Stock Silver Springs
    • Wheels: Focus WRC 26mm (non 60d) 
    • Tyres: 26mm Racing Semi Slick
    • Battery Type: NiHm Types (3300 / 2500 / 1800)
    • Extras 1: -
    • Extras 2: -
    • Extras 3: -
    • TOTAL WEIGHT: 1.35kg / 2.97lb

M-Chassis – The Fleet

Here’s a picture of our M-Chassis Fleet.

From left to right in clockwise order:

  • Alfa Romeo Giulia – M03 Medium Wheelbase
  • Mini Cooper – M03 Short Wheelbase
  • New Bmw Mini – M03 Long Wheelbase
  • New Fiat 500 - M03 Medium Wheelbase

Thanks for watching

A.

Our New Fiat 500 (Ka.st Mobile)

Our M-Chassis Fleet was expanded a few months ago when a “quick buy” took place near  TeamVebra’s headquarters.

An Expert Build Tamiya M03m:

<– This is what it looks like out of the Box

We felt it was appropriate to bless this shell with the logo of our Main (and very generous) Sponsor.

Shown above with the stock 500 wheels (left) and the slightly larger 26mm Ford Focus Wheels (right).

Thanks for watching!

A.

Our Alfa Romeo Giulia (mustard yellow)

Dear All,

A little while ago we’d ordered a new shell for the M03 (Medium Wheelbase). the ALFA ROMEO GIULIA GTA (for the geeks out there, it appears that the ‘A’ in GTA stands for ‘Allegerita’ which means ‘lighter’ in Italian)

It arrived without Decals and without any of the Plastic parts that go with it (side mirrors and headlights) We weren’t too concerned as our aim wasn’t that of recreating an original Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA but more an Ad-Hoc “vintage” looking vehicle.

Armed with nail-scissors we cut out the wheel-arches but the lack of window-masks got us a bit confused at first. How were we going to paint the inside of the shell without making the windows of the car the same colour as the shell itself ?

We thought of stenciling the window masks with a pencil but holding the tracing paper down would have proved tricky (if not very frustrating) In the end we used some large masking tape (the one used for painting/decorating) and applied it directly inside the shell. With a very sharp stanley knife we traced the outside of each window and carefully removed the excess tape.

The result was actually BETTER than what happens with most ready made window-masks that are a bit of a pain to lay down properly. We learnt a trick we may want to use again !

Next, we got a can of PS56 (Tamiya Mustard Yellow Paint ) and finished the shell up with some spare Rally decals and some custom made ones.

Eager to try the Shell out (before it was even properly finished) we rushed out to LMCC and look at what happened!

 It simply didn’t go anywhere..the track was covered in Snow and Ice.

Since that day though, our Giulia has completed its maiden lap (driven by TeamVebra driver Ka) and has had some additional decals applied to it.

(don’t pay attention to the very Large Rear Foam tyres, that was just a temporary “dragster look”)

Thanks for watching and feel free to post comments below!

Cheers

A.